Archive for the ‘pie’ Category
The career of a home-made pizzaiolo is, in many cases, determined up to the point of getting a baking stone that would provide the bottom heat a good pizza needs. There was an interesting posting on the chefkoch.de forum (hosted by excellent chef Carsten Dorhs) by user Alberto using a yeast-free dough with a hydration of 233% – a liquid batter that looked very promising, so I tried to have a go at very wet pizza doughs. The result is a thin, crisp and flexible pizza. Very good.
- 250g flour, Italian ’00’ or German Type 405 (100%)
- 300g cold mineral water (120%)
- 5g salt (2%)
- 2g fresh yeast (0.8%)
Quickly mix the ingredients for the dough together (I use a fork), then let stand covered for one hour at room temperature. Line a baking sheet with non-stick paper, rub a little olive oil onto it and pour the dough onto the sheet. Let stand for 10 minutes. The dough probably has spread by itself fitting the sheet. If not, use a spatula or a spoon to distribute the dough evenly.
For making the pizza, add your toppings like tomato sauce, mozzarella and herbs and bake the pizza at 250°C for 35-40 minutes on lowest rack of oven. Don’t leave it alone as the pizza might begin to char early (depending on the flour and the toppings, the heavier of which will sink into the dough).
Flódni are small cakes from Hungary. Three fillings on top of each other between sheets of sweet dough, cut into big cubic chunks for the afternoon tea or coffee table. I did not win a beauty contest with these, but after one night in the cold basement they tasted just right. Whole poppy seeds can also be used, roast them in a pan, then blitz in a blender, which is a close approximation to having them ground (there are special poppy seeds grinders). I used ‘Dampfmohn’, a ground, stabilized and steamed variety sold in handy bags of 200g.
P.S. ‘Apfelmohnnussschnitten’ is a genuine German word.
Flódni (makes 12)
- 500g plain flour
- 200g butter (originally with goose fat for a kosher cake)
- 75g powdered sugar
- 2 egg yolks
- 100-150g cold water
- A pinch of salt
Mix together and knead shortly. Cut into four pieces and roll each into a 10cm x 12cm piece. Refrigerate for 1-2 hours.
- 250g walnuts
- 200g sugar
- 125g water
Blitz walnuts and sugar in a blender, then bring to a boil in a cooking pot. Simmer for about 5 minutes. Let cool completely.
Poppy seed filling
- 175g ground poppy seeds (I used agaSaat ‘Dampfmohn’, ground and steamed poppy seeds)
- 75g sugar
- 75-150g water
Mix and bring to the boil with the water. Simmer for 2 minutes. Let cool completely.
- 6 good cooking apples (I used Berlepsch)
- 2 tbsp honey
- Lemon juice
- pinch of cinnamon
Peel and core the apples. Cut four apples into thin slices, grate the remaining two apples. Mix with a few drops of lemon juice, add the honey and bring to the boil. Cover the pot and cook for 2 minutes. Then cook uncovered for 8-15 minutes until the apples are soft. Let cool completely.
Roll out the four pieces of dough to rectangles measuring approx. 25cm x 15cm. A baking frame would help but it’s not necessary. Any excess dough can be used if there are holes in the dough. Spread the apple filling on the bottom sheet. Fillings from bottom to top: apple, walnut, poppy seeds, separated from each other by a sheet of dough. Put the last piece of dough on top, brush with egg and bake at 200°C for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 175° and bake for further 50 minutes. Let cool, preferably overnight, cut and dust with powder sugar.
Source: Das Kaffeehaus, Rick Rodgers
It was late in the day, but the temptation of two new baking books was too big. I had to bake, try a recipe. My choice: Baguettes made with pâte fermentêe from the book Brot und Gebäck für Genießer by Richard Bertinet of Bath. This is the German edition of Crust: Bread to get your teeth into.
Choose a recipe from a reputable source and stick to it to guarantee both successful baking and to try the cake as the originator of the recipe intended it to taste
This is not only true for cakes, I think. When I make a recipe from a written source for the first time, I follow it, period. This enables me to rate a recipe. If I start changing it right away because, in ignorance, I think the author has made a mistake, I inject my own ideas and handlings, which should be thought of as erroneous or at least not fully thought through. My sterile humble opinion: It as always best to assume a not knowing attitude when following recipes. The author is supposed to know how it’s done. In the spirit of a nightly adventure I ventured into making baguettes.
I would have chosen a different recipe (for example the everyday baguettes from Gontran Cherrier’s book) had I had a closer look at the Bertinet recipe. This is clearly one of the more involved recipes in the book making use of a starter, wet dough, autolyse and delayed salt addition. Fair enough, I just prepared the pâte fermentée and went to bed. The next day I could not bake all day and it was again late when I got started. The baguettes, of course, almost took forever and by the time they were ready I had halfway starved. I took them out into the cold night, placed them on a frosted table, quickly took a picture, waited until they had cooled (at -1°C) and devoured one. Consquently, after all that waiting, the finished breads tasted great. But even after some distance, I think they are rather good. Richard Bertinet bakes most of the breads in this book at full 250°C for the entire baking time. Result: Dark brittle crust, big randomized lift in the oven, at least if the last proof is not 100% accurate or on the verge of overproved. Nice.
Baguettes (makes 4 small ones)
Pâte fermentée (weißer Grundansatz)
- 90g flour, type 1050
- 63g water
- 2g salt
- 2g fresh yeast
Mix together and let rise overnight in the fridge. The pâte fermentêe should show clear signs of fermentation, i.e. should have doubled in volume. Tear a chunk off, there must be an open network of holes inside. If it still looks like a sluggish piece of gray sleepy dough, let it rise at room temperature until it is well aerated.
- 238g flour, type 1050
- 12g rye flour, typr 1150
- 180g water
- 5g sea salt
- All of the pâte fermentée
Autolyse. Mix the flours with the water, mix until smooth and let stand for 30 minutes.
Pâte fermentêe. Add the pâte fermentêe and knead until cooperated.
Salt. Sprinkle the salt over the dough and knead 2-3 minutes until smooth. This can be done on an unfloured counter if you keep the dough in motion and slap it down. It will spring back and feel firm on the outside due to the increasing tension in the dough.
First rise. Let rise at room temperature for 3 hours. The German book is unclear here (first error found): In the summary it says to let it rise for 3 hours, but the recipe text speaks of only 1.5 hours. Because the dough hadn’t risen much after 1.5 hours, I gave it another 1.5 hours, which was sufficient.
Shaping. Divide into 3 or 4 pieces and shape into baguette shapes.
Final Fermentation. Let rise for 1 hour. (1.5 hours would have been perfect.)
Slash and bake at 250°C for 12-15 minutes.
I stopped short of putting “Rise and Shine” into the title field. The attractive glaze of pastries has always gotten the better of me and led to the consumption of many pretty looking things that did not keep their promise and revealed uninspired and bland innards. Good things often look good, why can’t the reverse also be true! Since I find myself rowing against the current of the “Look Good, Feel Good”-era, this recent addition to the recipe seleciton of the closed bakery Bloch, a yeasted laminated butter dough, came in handy. If I understood the recipe correctly, the dough gets only one “tour”.
Small butter pastries
- 590g flour
- 330g milk (or a little less)
- 2 eggs
- 50g sugar
- 15 fresh yeast
- 10g salt
Make a firm but supple sweet cake dough and chill overnight. 330g of milk (original Bloch recipe) was a bit much in my case.
- 275g butter, chilled
- 160g currants
Take the dough and the butter out of the fridge and, depending on how cold, let rest for 10 minutes at room temperature. Roll out the dough to a large rectangle, about 1cm in thickness. Put the butter on 2/3 of the rectangle, sprinkle the currants over the butter. Fold the unbuttered 1/3 onto the buttered center, then fold over the remaining buttered 1/3. Roll out to the same thickness again. Don’t be tempted to roll it out thinner than that, it will make a tough and eventually dense dough. Chill for at least an hour and repeat the folding step one more time. Chill, roll out to a thickness of 5mm. Cut into desired pieces. I put two triangles on top of each other. Prove, glaze with eggwash, bake at about 190°C. Brush with a clear sugar glaze (equal parts of water and sugar brought to the boil once) after they come out of the oven.
One of the most popular Swiss food bloggers, Zorra from kochtopf, celebrates the joy of blogging continuously throughout the year with her monthly “Blog-Event” – an informal cyber-gathering of people around the world, writing about preparing food their way. The current one marks its 3rd birthday…Choir: “Happy blogday to yoooouuuu, happy….” This month is all about cake.
I chose a cake based on a recipe in “Baking with passion”. It is a sweet and rich yeast dough, moist, delicate and originally paired with a chocolate-walnut filling. I made an almond-marzipan inlay instead as a slight variation. A tasty cake, which in my case came out a little undone in the center.