Archive for May 2009
Neither as naughty as you might think nor an algebraic theory of mine, “60/40” refers to a standby in German bakeries. Probably the most popular bread around here or at least close to the top. 60% rye and 40% and wheat result in bread that is robust enough to be slathered with Wurst, but with jam it is very good too. Many bread books, especially French ones, suggest pairing rye bread with fish. I’ve never gotten far with that combination, maybe it is the flavor of German rye, which can have a bitter note? I love a Pumpernickel with smoked trout or eel though, together with cranberry jam and freshly grated horseradish a triumphatic combination, if I may say so.
In this bread I’ve reduced yeast quantity to less than 0.5 percent and added more water to get a dough of 75% hydration. A very comfortable 75%; the water retention of fine rye flour is high. Half of the rye flour is incorporated into a sourdough. This is the “60/40” I will keep in memory from now on. Good.
- 270g rye sourdough, hydration: 100%, made from fine dark rye flour, Type 1150
- 135g fine dark rye flour, Type 1150
- 180g strong white flour, Type 550
- 200g warm water, temperature: 52°C minus Your ambient temperature
- 2g fresh yeast
- 9g sea salt
Mix to a smooth dough, let rest 45 minutes, give a turn and let rise for another 45 minutes. Shape oblong or round, proof for about 1 hour, slash and bake at 260°C for 5 minutes with steam, reduce heat to 220°C and bake for a further 45 minutes. Let cool completely.
…from his second book I should add, since the first one has a recipe for this bread too. Very good and easy to do. Yes, the dough is wet at a hydration of 75% including oil, but a batter like dough is mandatory for most Ciabatta recipes. Ciabatta is a dramatic bread with its random big holes and using different ingredients changes the bread a lot too. I like to use this bread to try different flours. You can substitute strong white flour for the ’00’ flour.
Ciabatta (2 small ones)
- 60g strong white flour
- 60g Italian ’00’ flour (Here: Molino Alimonti ’00’ Verde)
- 70g water
- 1g fresh yeast
Mix together and let stand for 14-18 hours at room temperature, covered.
- 100g strong white flour
- 100g Italian ’00’ flour
- 165g water, 28°C
- 15 olive oil
- 3g fresh yeast
- 6g sea salt
Mix dough by your preferred method, adding salt last. Let stand 1.5 hours. The original recipe didn’t state this, but I’d recommend giving the dough one or two ‘turns’ or ‘folds’ during this bulk fermentation of 1.5 hours. Use a thin coating of olive oil in the bowl to prevent the dough from tearing too much (a little is okay).
Put / pour the dough onto the floured workbench and divide into two pieces. Let rest covered on a flowered towel. After 45 minutes stretch the pieces a little and turn them over to put them on parchment paper. Now I always give the shaped Ciabatta another rest for about 30-45 minutes. Bake at 230°C for 20 minutes.
Source: A variation on Richard Bertinet’s Ciabatta recipe in ‘Brot und Gebäck für Genießer’. (Original title: ‘Crust’)
Baker Süpke has created a memorable version of a German classic in bread – ‘ze Vollkornbrot’. That is ample reason for me to bake this bread and tell the world about it. This loaf made entirely of rye meal, fine to very coarse, has apple purrée in it; not much, just to ‘take off the peaks of the acidity’, Mr. Süpke writes, adding that it is ideal for someone not acquainted with whole-grain breads. Excellent.
Check out Ulrike’s version too. She made two loaves from the given quantities, I’ve used my biggest deep tin, which worked a treat.
Whole-rye with apple purrée
Makes one large loaf, approx. 1.5kg
- 20g rye sourdough, hydration: 100%
- 300g rye meal, medium grind
- 240g water, 20°C
Let stand at room temperature for 18 hours.
Cooked rye grains
- 100g rye grains
- 300 g water, or more
Cook the grains in the water, until thick and soft, about 60 minutes. Drain overnight.
- 230g very coarse rye meal or chopped rye
- 17g salt
- 230 g water
Make this the day before also, or let stand at least 4 hours.
- Cooked rye grains
- 230g rye meal, medium grind
- 25g apple purrée
- 10g fresh yeast
- 180g water, 35°C (Nils: 45°C)
Knead slowly for 20-30 minutes. It should be loose. Add water if necessary. Let stand for one hour, then knead slowly for 20-30 minutes again. Shape with wet hands an put into a large and deep tin.
Final fermentation: Up to 60 minutes. Catch it on the way up so it won’t collapse in the oven.
Bake-off: Bake for 2 minutes at 230°C, then release steam and bake for further 100 minutes at 160°C.
Source: Baker Süpke’s Blog