Archive for April 2009
This is another hearty rye based bread with imposed dough temperature. A comfortable dose of 70% rye gives a pronounced rye flavor, half of which is very coarse meal, the other half being fine flour. The rest of the flour is whole-wheat. A linseed and pumpkin seed soaker was used and no commercial yeast. And I also made dough quite firm because I wanted to test the effect of the temperature, in this case 29°C. Should have made quite a dense bread but it wasn’t the expected brick at all. Crumb of the loaf is moist and hearty yet it is not brick like, but uniformly soft and satisfying. Due to the high water retention of the ingredients, namely the meal and the seeds, this bread’s hydration is around 100%. Better leave it for 24 hours before slicing. Next time I make ths bread I will bake a huge one in a tin and really go to town.
70 Percent rye with a rye meal sourdough soaker
- 140g coarse rye meal
- 300g boiling water
- 1 tsp rye sourdough, hydration: 100%
Pour the boiling water over the rye meal, mix and let stand until warm, then fold in the rye sourdough. Let stand covered at a warm spot for 18-24 hours.
- 30g linseeds
- 20g pumpkin seeds
- 100g water
Mix and let stand covered for at least 4 hours.
- 140g rye flour
- 120g whole-wheat flour
- Enough water (100g or less) at 37°C if ambient temperature is around 21°C, dough should be moderately firm if bread is baked as free standing loaf
- 9g salt
- Meal sourdough
- Seed soaker
Bulk fermentation: 1 hour. Desired dough temperature: 29°C
Final fermentation: Roll in Einkorn meal and proof in a banneton or Brotform for about 1 hour.
Bake-off: Bake for 10 minutes at 250°C, then reduce temperature to 200°C and bake for a further hour. Brush with starch wash if desired. Let cool and rest for 24 hours before slicing.
Kartoffelpuffer (potato fritters)
- 3 large potatoes, peeled and grated
- 1 egg
- 1 tbsp sour cream
- 2 tbsp bread crumbs
- pinch of salt
Mix and bake in not too hot oil for about 8 minutes, 5 on the first side, 3 on the second. Drain on kitchen paper.
Apfel-Birnen-Mus (apple pear puree)
- 2 large pears, peeled and chopped
- 1 large apple, not too sweet, peeled and chopped
- 50g water
- 1 tsp vanilla sugar
- 1 tsp lemon juice or white wine
Mix, in a pan bring to the boil, simmer covered for 20 minutes, then purée.
To serve, drizzle a little Grafschafter Goldsaft over the potato fritters. Also very good with ‘Apfelschmaus’ – a thick puree of cooked pears and apples.
This is a formula that I like to bake almost weekly because it’s so good with salami and mustard, especially in the evening. Not easy to get a good profile and well-aerated crumb at the same time. This time I was armed with thermometer and calculator.
It’s made from 450g of flour, 60% rye and 40% wheat, one third of the rye flour being incorporated into a sourdough. And I also added a yeasted poolish from 50g of the white flour. Hydration was 70%, total quantity of yeast around 1% yeast. Also added a little malt and sugar beet syrup, a total of less than a teaspoon. The recommended temperature is 28°C. Ambient temperature was 21°C. So I used a water temperature of 2 x 28°C – 21°C = 35°C.
It worked. I am surprised. After sticking my meat thermometer into the dough, it slowly went up from 21°C to 28°C. I had not even taken into account the prefermented mixes. And the bread has a good crumb and almost perfect flavor. Good to know.
A time has come that my hunt for better brread coming out of the kitchen oven will take paths bordering on professionalism. Employing techniques formerly thought of being only useful to the pro baker, is no longer a luxury for me but just the next step forward. Yes, yes, and let it be known that I will no longer accept the ridiculously unprecise ‘warm water’ in bread recipes!
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…about ready to go into the hot oven. Oh yeah.
Recipe is down to Marcella Hazan. I simmered the Sauce Bolognese for 4 hours and let it distribute all its flavors overnight in the fridge. But I do prefer egg-free pasta, store-bought, in a Lasagne since it’s already a rich dish. I boil the pasta sheets beforehand, then trim them to fit the pan. No single drop of olive oil here, just butter and vegetable oil.