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Archive for March 2009

Flódni (Apfelmohnnussschnitten)

with 20 comments

Flódni are small cakes from Hungary. Three fillings on top of each other between sheets of sweet dough, cut into big cubic chunks for the afternoon tea or coffee table. I did not win a beauty contest with these, but after one night in the cold basement they tasted just right. Whole poppy seeds can also be used, roast them in a pan, then blitz in a blender, which is a close approximation to having them ground (there are special poppy seeds grinders). I used ‘Dampfmohn’, a ground, stabilized and steamed variety sold in handy bags of 200g.

P.S. ‘Apfelmohnnussschnitten’ is a genuine German word.

Flódni (makes 12)


  • 500g plain flour
  • 200g butter (originally with goose fat for a kosher cake)
  • 75g powdered sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 100-150g cold water
  • A pinch of salt

Mix together and knead shortly. Cut into four pieces and roll each into a 10cm x 12cm piece. Refrigerate for 1-2 hours.

Walnut filling

  • 250g walnuts
  • 200g sugar
  • 125g water

Blitz walnuts and sugar in a blender, then bring to a boil in a cooking pot. Simmer for about 5 minutes. Let cool completely.

Poppy seed filling

  • 175g ground poppy seeds (I used agaSaat ‘Dampfmohn’, ground and steamed poppy seeds)
  • 75g sugar
  • 75-150g water

Mix and bring to the boil with the water. Simmer for 2 minutes. Let cool completely.

Apple filling

  • 6 good cooking apples (I used Berlepsch)
  • 2 tbsp honey
  • Lemon juice
  • pinch of cinnamon

Peel and core the apples. Cut four apples into thin slices, grate the remaining two apples. Mix with a few drops of lemon juice, add the honey and bring to the boil. Cover the pot and cook for 2 minutes. Then cook uncovered for 8-15 minutes until the apples are soft. Let cool completely.

Roll out the four pieces of dough to rectangles measuring approx. 25cm x 15cm. A baking frame would help but it’s not necessary. Any excess dough can be used if there are holes in the dough. Spread the apple filling on the bottom sheet. Fillings from bottom to top: apple, walnut, poppy seeds, separated from each other by a sheet of dough. Put the last piece of dough on top, brush with egg and bake at 200°C for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 175° and bake for further 50 minutes. Let cool, preferably overnight, cut and dust with powder sugar.

Source: Das Kaffeehaus, Rick Rodgers


Written by theinversecook

25 March 2009 at 00:47

Linseed ‘Deli’ Bread

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As winter slowly recedes back to wherever it came from, my appetite for the comforting flavors of whole grain or rye breads somehow gets a new ‘interpretation’ in spring. Quite odd. I happens every year and every time I am caught by surprise. A mild rye bread suddenly becomes the ideal picnic loaf when it seeemed a little too light and lacking in flavor and texture in winter. I don’t know, cooks might move from stews, soups, beans and cabbage to pasta, pizza, tomatoes and other bright flavors, I find I enjoy wheat breads the most in summer. And this loaf is certainly closer to wheat than it is to rye. I used a little apple juice and yoghurt in the starter to make it ferment a bit quicker and to add a little natural sugar. A light, moist loaf with a crisp crust. New light through old windows.

Edit, 23 March 2009: In case you’re wondering about the apple juice, please see a former post about ‘French Wheaten Rye’ from the book ‘Baking with passion’

Linseed ‘Deli’ Bread


  • 70g strong white flour
  • 70g rye flour
  • 20g yoghurt
  • 50g apple juice
  • 70g water
  • 1 tsp mature rye sourdough, hydration: 100%

Mix and let stand covered in a warm spot for 12-16 hour.

Yeasted poolish

  • 50g strong white flour
  • 50g water
  • 0.1g fresh organic yeast

Mix and let stand covered at room temperature for 14 hours.

Linseed (aka flaxseed) soaker

  • 50g linseeds
  • 100g cold water

Mix and let stand at room temperature for at least 3 hours.


  • 50g rye flour
  • 150g strong white flour
  • 30g water (so that consistency of dough is rather loose)
  • 4g fresh organic yeast
  • 8g sea salt
  • Sourdough
  • Yeasted poolish
  • Linseed soaker

Bulk fermentation: 1 hour at room temperature
Final fermentation: : 1 hour at room temperature
Bake at 210°C for 50-60 minutes.

Written by theinversecook

22 March 2009 at 18:45

Light rolls

with 4 comments

Home-made rolls can have nearly the same lightness as commercial ones made with chemical ‘improvers’, should that be a desired property of your roll. Often it isn’t for me, so I consider this more an experimental recipe. It’s a very wet dough, which is then folded numerous times to get stability. I also added a pinch of ascorbic acid for that purpose although can’t really say if it did anything. Looking at the bag of flour there already is ascorbic acid in added to the strong white flour that I like to use.

Light dinner rolls

Old milk dough

  • 50g strong white flour
  • 1 tsp whole-wheat flour
  • 40g low-fat milk
  • 1g fresh yeast
  • 1g salt

Mix together, knead shortly and let rest at room temperature for 2 hours. Then put into fridge overnight.


  • 250g strong white flour
  • 200g low-fat milk
  • 5g salt
  • 4g fresh yeast
  • A pinch of ascorbic acid
  • Old milk dough

Mix dough. It should be wet and sticky like Ciabatta dough. Mix with fork, then let rest for 20 minutes in oilled bowl. Fold every 20 minutes for 80 minutes until dough feels light.

Divide into 8 pieces approx. 70g. Shape round with a light hand. Turn around and proof for 60-80 minutes on a floured towel (I use rye flour). Turn around, slash and bake at 230°C for 20 minutes. Alternatively, prior to final fermentation, work in flour or fat into the seam of the dough and proceed as above.

Written by theinversecook

8 March 2009 at 22:22


with 33 comments

First, apologies to all beer lovers.

No, Guinness have not branched out into the bread market (AFAIK), but the thought of marrying the rich and creamy flavor of this beer with a rye bread has been on my mind a long time. I know you don’t care but when I drink beer, it’s this or one of the Southern German style beers with a nod towards sweet yeastiness. All other beers stink of course.

I think not all beers are suitable for baking. Sometimes their flavor in bread evaporate into nothing. What often remains is a stale bitterness that does not really blend with the flavor of the bread. The Guinness with its chocolaty and malty aftertaste is perfect for a grainy kind of bread like Vollkornbrot.

No mention of Vollkornbrot without the ‘flying top’ issue, i.e. the top of the crust flying off the rest of the loaf leaving a big hole. This time I was lucky and me thinks that soaking and boiling of the grains and meals help prevent a flying top. Also, as previously mentioned, the sourdough should be very acidic.

I thought I had turned down the oven but after 40 minutes it still was on 240°C making this loaf a bit too dark.


P.S. This bread was modelled after Baker Süpke’s ‘Schwarzer Hamster’ (black hamster), a bread that so far has found many interpretations in numerous blogs.


Rye meal soaker

  • 100g coarse rye meal
  • 100g warm water

Let stand covered for 5-16 hours at room temperature.

Rye grain beer soaker

  • 150g rye grains
  • 250g Guinness beer
  • 50g sunflower seeds

Boil the rye grains in water for 30 minutes, ‘al dente’, drain and mix with sunflower seeds. Add the beer, mix and let stand covered for 12-16 hours. The liquid will be absorbed very slowly and there might still be excess beer at the end of the 16 hours. Use that in the dough.


  • 100g rye flour
  • 100g strong white flour
  • 5g fresh yeast
  • 10g salt
  • 200g rye sourdough, hydration: 100%
  • Rye meal soaker
  • Rye grain beer soaker

Mix ingredients thoroughly until combined. Should the dough be too stiff, add some water until a constistency of mashed potatoes is reached. Desired dough temperature 27°C.

Bulk fermentation: 20-60 minutes depending how cool or warm the dough is. 20 minutes if it has the desired 27°C. Scrape out of the bowl directly into baking tin lined with baking paper.

Final fermentation: 20-40 minutes. Dough should rise sllightly and should not feel too light on top.

Bake at 240°C for 20 minutes and another 40-60 minutes at 190°C.

Written by theinversecook

6 March 2009 at 01:34

Okay, it’s good bread. Now what are we going to do with it?

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Currant bread pudding for example. Published on the Guardian page for “How to bake” by Dan Lepard

Ale, mixed spice, stale brown bread and sugar make a ‘stout and spicy’ dessert or lunch treat. The beer, bread and currants blend to a rich flavor conjuring up images of days when simpler and often better food was on the shelves of bakeries. I used one fhird of a loaf of white leaven bread, that had some whole-wheat flour in it. Worked a treat.

Also, not very original, but tasty: soup. With bread spoons of course (same loaf).

Written by theinversecook

4 March 2009 at 20:00