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Tollkötters Hausbrot

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The “House Bread” is the pride of bakery Tollkötter in Münster. A rather fine loaf of bread and one of the few examples of bread untouched by modern bread-improver-hocuspocus, that has lead to a steady decline of commercial bread quality. It is baked in big boules, which are a sensational sight in the shopwindow (cf. a post from 24 July 2007). It is one of the few bakery breads that I buy frequently. I can’t reproduce it at home. The closest I got was with a formula found in Jeffrey Hamelman’s book “Bread” for a miche with increased rye.

Judging from the 500g piece I have lying in front of me and the flavor from the eaten slice, I’d say it is pure sourdough with a hint of rye. I believe reading that it had more than 50% rye in it, but I doubt it. The crumb is quite light in color and has the natural sweetness of wheat underlined by the malty dark aroma of beet syrup. Also, the crumb is sturdy, so there might be soaked rye meal in it as well. The surface shows huge cracks splitting the thick and leathery crust into a terrain of floury islands with a terrific taste. From here I could go all chi-chi and romanticize about the aroma of chestnuts and almonds, but everybody has a different tongue.

The bread is shipped throughout Germany and can even be bought in Berlin.


Written by theinversecook

8 December 2008 at 16:33

6 Responses

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  1. This looks amazing. I do bake most of my own bread but make a point to also buy regularly from bakeries I like. I think it’s important to support these businesses so the art and craft of bread baking is not lost.

    Susan/Wild Yeast

    9 December 2008 at 07:24

  2. I can’t say I have any good bakeries in my local neighborhood, though in Manhattan there are some, primarily wholesale, so I make my own bread. When I visit Europe I always go to bakeries for a taste or two!

    Jeremy

    9 December 2008 at 15:33

  3. There are no good bakeries in my area. The bread you posted looks delicious, could you ask the baker what is in it? Teresa

    northwestsourdough

    11 December 2008 at 08:52

  4. @ Teresa: Will try to ask, maybe by e-mail.

    @ Susan: True, good bakeries need support. I would love to go to bakeries daily, but a croissant without butter, a roll puffed up by improvers, breads with dried commercial sourdough….not something I would would want to eat daily.

    @ Jeremy: Show them how it’s done!

    theinversecook

    11 December 2008 at 16:30

  5. Till I had to move I was happy enough to get my bread made by an old farmer’s lady in her own wood fired oven. After that I couldn’t find a bakery coming close to what I was used to. Being spoiled like that I only buy pastries at our local bakers to support them but no bread now that I know how to make it on my own.

    Katrin

    12 December 2008 at 01:44

  6. @Katrin: I try to force myself to go to bakeries, always wishing it would be as great as I imagine. But what a let-downm, baking seems to be a decaying art. My respect for real bakers has risen to infinity, now that I know how difficult it is to do it consistently.

    theinversecook

    14 December 2008 at 03:06


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