Wachauer rolls and a new book (Upd. 23 Jan 2008)
I do not know much about Austrian bread, one thing I noticed instantly while browsing through the book was that the recipe section retains all the linguistic differences that exist between the German and the Austrian languages. “Yeast” is “Germ” in Austrian, “Hefe” in German, dried sourdough is referred to as “Gerstel” (instead of “Trockensauer”). “Bannetons” are called “Simperl”. Instead of “Brötchen” the word “Weckerl” is used.
The book has 156 pages, the first 89 of which are filled with a couple of general chapters on bread history, a bit of general cereal chemistry, milling and background on various ingredients up to a remark that sesame “probably originated in the tropical Africa and nowadays is cultivated in Egypt, Asia Minor, China, Japan and East India”. The book is filled with such side-notes.
There are 28 recipes. They are:
- Bruschetta mit Tomaten
- Hefefreies Roggenmischbrot
- Pizza Romana
- Roggenmischbrot mit Hefe
- Sojaweckerl mit Teriyakihendl
Most of the the breads made with predominantly wheat flour use a firm yeasted starter, the rye breads use dried rye sourdough, the “Gerstel”, which is refreshed prior to baking. There is only very little on sourdough in this book, only a small description on how to start a culture. No options besides drying it are given. This is done by adding flour until the mixture gets crumbly, which is then stored in the fridge. No explicit directions on maintaining a liquid sourdough culture are given. The book has frustration potential for someone who has not baked with sourdough before.
A listing of the different breads of Austria is identical with the product range of the bakery Ströck displayed on their site.
Apparently in Austra instead of white flour of Type 550 one of Type 700 is used whenever strong white flour is called for. I think this makes sense, because German 550 can be a little too soft for many breads and suffers under a long fermentation. Since I did not have Type-700-flour I added 1050 to a 550. The resulting mix is a litte darker then white flour and probably needs more water than the original Type-700-flour. I had to add some in the first recipe I tried – “Vachauer”:
Wachauer (makes ten round rolls)
- 50 flour, Type 700
- 30g cold water
- 3g fresh yeast
- 2g salt
- 300g flour, Type 700
- 75g rye flour, Type 960 (light rye flour)
- 250g cold water
- 20g oil
- 5g mix of ground and whole caraway seeds
- 7g salt
- 7g fresh yeast
- 5g barley malt
Bulk Fermentation: 45-60 minutes
Cut into 10 pieces of dough. Shape each round by pressing down and making circular movements. Do not seal the bottom, instead dunk the rolls with the irregular bottom into a bowl of rye flour. Prove flour side down.
Final Fermentation: 60-75 minutes
Turn the pieces of dough over and bake them at 240°C for 5 minutes, then reduce heat to 200°C and bake for further 13 – 15 minutes.
These rolls are nice, the caraway flavor is barely there. They are a bit dry, but have a smooth mouth feeling. I find the floury top quite attractive too. I am tempted to make my own Wachauers with a little sourdough and maybe butter instead of the oil. Brotzeit is!
Recipe for Foccacia, p. 108. In the directions a reference to a starter is given, but in the table a recipe for such a “Vorteig” is missing.
Recipe for the “Hefefreies Roggenmischbrot”(naturally leavened light rye bread), p. 112 . A yeasted starter is given instead of a rye sourdough starter, which is used in the dough.
Recipe for “Kürbiskernweckerl”, p. 120.. “500ml Weizenmehl” —> “500g Weizenmehl”.