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Dresdner Stolle

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…and the Stollen baking spree continues. This recipe is from a German cookbook from the 50s – “Das elektrische Kochen” (The electric cooking). It is the Stollen that is closest to what we ate as kids around Christmas time. Interesting to see that there are differences to the “Extra moist stollen” by Dan Lepard, namely:

  • About 10% more butter
  • No powdered spices
  • No eggs
  • Plain white flour instead of strong white flour
  • Typically without marzipan (I’ve used it here)

The recipe for “Dresdener Stolle” (‘Stolle’ being a femalized version of the male word ‘Stollen’) makes for a slightly firmer but finer crumb. Packed in paper the Stollen is usually stored for 3-4 weeks in a cool and not too dry place before it is eaten at the coffee toble at 24th December.

The instructions in the book do seem a little antique and compared to modern baking texts, they sound a bit long-winded. For example at the beginning the reader is advised to “prepare a yeast dough with method No. x on page y” making a well in the center of the flour and letting the yeast rise with a little liquid. The method is a good one. I modified it a bit and made a quick ‘Hefestück’ (known as ‘biga’ in Italy, ‘sponge’ in the UK, ”Dampferl’ in Southern parts of Germany and ‘Hebel’ in Switzerland).

Dresdner Stolle (2)

  • 700g plain flour (Type 405)
  • 300g butter
  • 250g raisins
  • 150g-200g warm milk
  • 105g caster sugar
  • 80g mixed candied fruit and peel
  • 50g almonds, chopped
  • 40g bitter almonds, chopped (or 40g chopped regular almonds)
  • 41g fresh yeast
  • 7g salt
  • 25g rum (optional, for soaking)
  • 250g marzipan (optional, for the filling)
  • 150g powdered sugar for coating
  • 150g butter for coating
  • 50g caster sugar for coating

You can soak the fruits and the almonds in rum overnight as an option.

For the dough, make the sponge first: Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in 100g of the milk. Crumble the yeast into it and work in flour, so that you get a firm ball. Sprinkle flour over the ball, cover the bowl and let stand for about 15 minutes. The sponge is ready when there are cracks in the flour surface.

Next, add all the other ingredients except the fruit, peel or almonds. Knead until you get a smooth dough, which should be firmer than bread dough. If it is still crumbly, add more milk. Then add the raisins, fruit, peel and almonds and continue kneading carefully. Don’t work it too long as it will toughen it too much and will taint the dough from the juices of the raisins. Let it rise for 60 minutes or until the dough has slighly expanded. Due to the amount of butter the dough will have almost no elasiticity.

Divide dough into two pieces and roll each piece into ovals. Let rest for 5 minutes. If using the marzipan, roll it into a sausage and cut into two sausages. Shape the Stollen by rolling it into a long shapes, then flatten with the palm of your hand. Make an indentation lengthwise where the marzipan is placed. Fold the dough over the marzipan inlays. Then shape into bâtard-shape again and make another indentation lengthwise and fold the dough over that again. Proof seam side down in baskets or lightly floured towels for about 30-45 minutes.

Bake for about 45 minutes at 180°C. Remove the burnt raisins from the top of the loaf. While still hot, dust with caster sugar. Let cool until slightly warm. Then brush on the melted butter and dust heavily with powdered sugar. Pack tightly and store in a cool place for up to 8 weeks.

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Written by theinversecook

11 December 2009 at 15:34

24 Responses

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  1. Wow, it looks great! I think my sister has a newer version of that cookbook. I have to check it out. I want to make stollen again this year and since I live in Dresden it is sort of a must!

    Mihl

    11 December 2009 at 18:11

    • Yes the book seemed to be some sort of standard a while back, commonly referred to as “the blue cookbook” becaus eof its grayish-blue cover. It’s a good recipe, the crumb has firmed up a little now.

      theinversecook

      13 December 2009 at 14:09

  2. Your stollen looks marvelous!! It is very funny. I attended a Christkindl markt last week, and I bought a 800g stollen from a baker who was selling different varieties of stollen at the markt, and your stollen looks almost exactly like his!!! I decided to buy his true classic stollen as it was moist and the flavor had the right balance.

    Sven

    11 December 2009 at 20:29

    • That’s the secret for me, the right balance. Some store-bought stollen use cheaper fats or baking powder instead of yeast. Making it the traditional way – a decaying art? But since the baker travelled to that Christkindlmarkt und sold it there, I too would have expected it to be excellent.

      theinversecook

      13 December 2009 at 14:12

      • That’s the trouble with stollen, cheap ones are no good, dry and with not enough fruit. It’s expensive to make a really good stollen, so you have to be prepared to spend quite a lot to buy a really good stollen.

        Barm

        16 December 2009 at 17:28

  3. Ach wie toll! Nicht nur, dass du Marzipan verwendet hast, was ich liebe, dieses Kochbuch ist ja ein Schatz ohne gleichen. Die Fotos!!! Und diese Anstreichungen sind das Allerbeste. Neben dem Stollen, versteht sich.

    Jutta

    12 December 2009 at 02:12

    • Der vergilbte Look hat auch etwas Archaisches, wenn auch nicht immer Appetitliches,:-)

      theinversecook

      13 December 2009 at 14:14

  4. I’ve never tasted it. So I’m bit curious. Stollen is often compared to panettone, but it looks quite different, what do you think?

    ps It reminds me more the panforte from Genova.

    massimo

    12 December 2009 at 22:55

    • Crumb-wise probably somewhere between panforte and panettone, I’d imagine. Often, a very fine and soft crumb is desired, whereas a lot of effort is put into making panettone retain its lightness (like hanging it upside down after baking). I have never eaten a true panettone made with sourdough, though.

      theinversecook

      13 December 2009 at 14:21

  5. Another delicious stollen. I’m surprised the recipe used no eggs, I thought they were essential. Which one did you prefer?

    Katie

    20 December 2009 at 16:45

    • The Dresdner Stolle has a longer shelf-life, but the Lepard stollen is delicious while still fresh and moist. Can’t decide on a winner. Oh, must sample more :-D

      theinversecook

      20 December 2009 at 23:08

  6. Butter und Zucker – das Geheimnis jeden guten Stollens … Da gab es vor längerer Zeit mal einen Artikel von Th. Vilgis zum Thema. Habe die Ergebnisse hier zusammengefasst:

    Zucker und Butter im Christstollen

    Claudia

    21 December 2009 at 13:44

    • Sehr gute Tipps. Habe sogar einige beherzigt. Nur das mit dem Durchziehen muss ich noch lernen. Mein Stollen ist übrigens jetzt doch schon recht trocken geworden, trotz reichlich Butter und Zucker. Vielleicht noch besser einpacken…

      theinversecook

      26 December 2009 at 14:10

  7. Ich habe Stollen noch nie selbst gebacken. Dieser hier sieht toll aus, und mit Marzipan gefällt mir sehr gut, vielleicht sollte ich mich doch mal daran wagen.

    Christina

    22 December 2009 at 16:47

    • Klar, so schwer ist es ja auch nicht. Ich denke, wichtig ist auch, den Teig nicht zu lange gehen zu lassen. Auf jeden FAll nicht im Volumen verdoppeln lassen, sonst fängt er an, das Fett ‘auszuschwitzen’ und verliert beim Backen an Stand, soll heißen: Läuft auseinander.

      theinversecook

      26 December 2009 at 14:11

  8. Lecker Stolle, Nils :)

    Did Santa bring you anything nice for Christmas this year? You got that wicked grain mill last year, if I’m not mistaken?

    Enjoy the holidays!

    Hans Joakim

    30 December 2009 at 14:04

    • And to you, Hans-Joakim.

      Yes, the grain mill served me well so far. No fancy bread gadgets this year, but I took an adventurous ride on my bike through snow and storm to buy a kilo of rye grains on a Sunday, to bake the 1-2-3-bread using the mill.

      Happy end of 2009!

      theinversecook

      30 December 2009 at 15:36

      • Hey! In Germany I thought Sunday is a day of quiet, and all of the stores are closed?

        Sven

        30 December 2009 at 20:50

        • That’s true…unless the town center is having a end-of-the-year-madness sale. And the shops were packed solid last sunday. Even the bio shops. I quickly sneaked in, grabbed my grains and flew the scene.

          theinversecook

          30 December 2009 at 21:00

  9. And a terrific bread you baked, Nils! Looks delicious!

    By the way, have you checked out Martin Pöt’s recent book on sourdough baking? Amazon.de link here: http://www.amazon.de/Sauerteig-unbekannte-Herstellen-Pflegen-leichtgemacht/dp/3865829643

    Hans Joakim

    30 December 2009 at 22:24

    • I haven’t yet, Hans-Joakim. Looks quite good. But what I really should do is raid my baking books for recipes I haven’t baked before. Also, I think it would be nice to have more ideas on the blog using bread, such as English muffins with smoked salmon and creme fraiche, or bagels, doughnuts and such. The new year’s brunch got me thinking.

      Have a happy 2010.

      theinversecook

      3 January 2010 at 17:25

  10. Whew! We made our (last minute!) stolle last year using this recipe, and it was the best we’d ever had. But do you think I could find the print out this year? Just spent the afternoon Googling trying to track you down again – can’t tell you what a relief it was to see that familiar picture with the stolle in foil. Now this page is bookmarked, printed, and cut/pasted into my Gmail account!

    Matt

    16 October 2010 at 11:35

    • Oh boy, it is already that time again. Will definitely make one as well before Christmas. Happy baking.

      theinversecook

      12 November 2010 at 23:28

      • Four years in a row :)

        Matt

        14 December 2012 at 13:15


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