Archive for July 2009
The ‘Moccahaus’ in Münster Germany, is a quiet coffee shop sitting right next to a fancily dressed up and usually crowded bakery. *) It sometimes looks as if the stream of bakery customers do not notice that they are close to good coffee on the right hand side and uninspired and chemical-laden baked goods on the left hand side, both at the same time. Whenever I approach the two shops, I keep humming “Turn right, turn right, not left, not left”. It is true, the seducing scents of freshly baked rolls, always spark more interest than a humble shop selling coffee blends, tea and chocolate.
The Moccahaus has been roasting its own coffee for years and I think their ‘Dark 100% Arabica” is their best blend. The beans are poured into a sturdy brown paper bag on a big old-fashioned looking scale. As perhaps visible on the picture below, it’s a dark roast. Probably the darkest I have come across. When the beans get roasted like that which is probably a walk on the tightrope they start to sweat oil heavily. They stick to your palm when you dump the handful back into the bag.
The smell of the fresh beans is intense. The aromas of leather and tobacco without the slightest fruitiness is abundant, reminding me of the smell of pinewood inlays of cigar humidors. When ground to a fine powder, this coffee as dark as the beans, nearly pitch black. It is velvety to the touch and a bitterness can be detected in the aroma.
Pulled as espresso shot into a heated cup, one thing is sure: This stuff means serious business. The crema is thin but what the hell, as the smell of the hot black liquid dance under my nostrils, I feel a little nervous about gulping it down. So sip by sip, like an explosion in slow-motion, the mouth is scented with a chocolaty coffee flavor. No acidity, just a dry whiplash. Yet another good example of an espresso with humble crema but with monster flavor. Also one of the best coffees to have as cappuccino.
At least 4.5 out of 5 sleepless caffeine nights. (Coffee machine used: Gaggia ‘Classic Coffee’, Grinder: Gaggia MDF)
48143 münster, germany
telephone +49 251 46094
*) The author of this blog has no explanation for the large crowds around and inside this bakery and is suspicious of any businesses that make their employees wear funny hats
Baker Süpke, the baker from Thuringia, whose blog resides at the top of many home bakers’ bookmarks, recently tried a new roll recipe for his bakery and published the recipe. The recipe for rustic rolls include both, sourdough and a yeasted poolish, next to mashed potatoes and sour cream. Apparently the roll did not go into production because it was too similar to an ordinary Brötchen. It certainly passed quality control in my “bakery” (=cupboard with flour + workspace + oven).
These rolls have a perfect crust, the crumb is light without being excessively feathery. Good for flatter type of roll with a big crust ration. Excellent.
Zeb asked about a recipe for German rolls. I haven’t made these but since I trust the source, I can just as well post it. All is given is the naked formula, no instructions on fermentation times. Meant to bake these. Will.
From a first look, looks like a stiff dough. Add more water to desired consistency. Also, please scale to your own needs
- 3000g flour, Type 550 (strong white flour)
- 1500g water, cold
- 15g fresh yeast
- 1000g flour, Type 550 (strong white flour)
- 600g water
- 100g white leaven, stiff
- 4515g pâte fermentêe (all of the above)
- 1600g white leaven (all of the above minus 100g)
- 6000g flour, Type 550 (strong white flour)
- 3700g water
- 200g salt
Better sneak in one of my own recipes for a change. When baking with a high percentage of rye, there are basically two options. Either bake it has a rather huge free-standing loaf with a low profile to have a big crust/crumb ratio and a stronger flavor, or use an even higher hydration and bake in a tin to get a more tame crust and an altogether milder flavor. The latter obviously being the more convenient way to master the sticky rye dough. I have only seen and tasted delicious free-standing rounds of rye breads with 70% or more rye flour in them from the best bakeries. I am guessing there is a certain technique employed after shaping. It may be a very wet dough and an extremely short final fermentation or a beast of an oven hovering above 280°C to prevent the dough from spreading too much. The same dough, after it has completed its fermentation, can still go through substantial transformations so it may yield entirely different results.
As usual with rye doughs, I was timid, nervous and shaky, so I used the tin. The bread turned out mildly sour and it has an elastic crumb. Good for lunch sandwiches with salami, cheese or with home-made jam.
- 230g dark rye flour, Type 1150
- 230g water
- 40g mature rye sourdough, hydration: 100%
Let stand at room temperature for 18-24 hours, 21°C.
- 50g linseeds (flax seeds)
- 50g coarse rye meal or chopped rye
- 150g water
Let stand for at least 5 hours at room temperature.
- 150g rye flour, Type 1150
- 100g strong white flour (here: Type 550)
- 5g fresh yeast (optional)
- 50-100g warm water, to get a loose dough
- 11g sea salt
- Rye sourdough
Bulk fermentation: 45 minutes with yeast, around 2 hours without yeast.
Final fermentation: 1 hour with yeast, around 2-3 hours without.
Bake: At 250°C for 10 minutes, another 60-70 minutest at 200°C
Let cool, then rest for at least 24 hours to stabilize the crumb and let the bread develop its signature flavor. The warm crumb of an 80-Percent rye bread does not taste like much.
Another Bäko recipe I’ve wanted to try. Note the high amount of starter and the salt in the sourdough build. Especially in the warmer months, adding salt is a good way to slow down fermentation a little giving the baker increased control over acidity.
Speaking as ‘bread sommelier’, this bread has a long finish and the rather complex flavors really only come together after the bread has had a couple of days rest, preferably undisturbed and wrapped in paper. But that’s an unrealistic secneario because you know you want to cut into it as soon as it is cool enough to handle. I like to take two thick slices, slather them with wurst or put cheese on them and have them as breakfast or lunch with an enormous cup of tea, coffee or a big glass of orange juice.
Very coarse rye meal
Moist and grainy rye bread (makes 1 big loaf)
Salted sourdough ‘Salzsauer’
- 35g mature rye sourdough, hydration: 100%
- 180g very coarse rye meal, ‘chunky’
- 145g spring water
- 3.5g sea salt
Let stand at room temperature for 16-20 hours.
- 180g very coarse rye meal, ‘chunky’
- 13g sea salt
- 145g hot water water
Let stand at room temperature at least 5 hours.
- 120g sunflower seeds, lightly toasted
- 60g linseeds (flax seeds)
- 60g stale rye bread, cut into 1/2cm cubes
- 240g water
Let stand at room temperature at least 8 hours.
- Soaker #1
- Soaker #2
- 240g rye flour, Type 1150
- 2g fresh yeast
- 30g dark beet syrup
- 100-150g water to make a moist dough, not too soft
Knead slowly for 30 minutes in a spiral mixer (I’ve used 5-minute-intervals of hand-mixing). Let dough rest for 45 minutes, then knead for 5 minutes again.
Desired dough temperature: 27-28°C
Final Fermentation: 60-70 minutes.
Bake in a big bread tin at 240°C for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 180°C and bake for further 60 minutes. Let cool completely overnight, then cut in half. Store one half wrapped in paper while you eat the other one. Stays fresh for at least 1 week.