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Dan Lepard’s extra moist stollen (Update 23 December 2008)

with 14 comments

This is Dan Lepard’s stollen from last week-end’s “How to bake” on the site of the Guardian (recipe here and here).

It is cleverly made with a cooked flour-water porridge which increases moistness of the crumb. Mine looks a bit like brown bread although the amount of whole-wheat flour used is minimal. Maybe the spices? The flavor bears a deep impression of the fragrant mace, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon. It has a warm appeal and is perfect for a quick breakfast with a big cup’o tea in the morning just before leaving the house. Excellent!

I will make this again as soon as this one’s finished and will reduce spices a little to see how the flavor changes. I am a big fan of a clean buttery finish. The scale in the bath room confirmed it.

Update: The second one was even better. Strangely, this time it did not rise at all at any time, but had a great consistency after the bake. Very firm and moist, like a proper Stollen should be. Going to make another Stollen before the year ends – Mick Hartley’s Quarkstollen – a sourdough version of this popular fruit bread.

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Written by theinversecook

15 December 2008 at 23:24

14 Responses

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  1. Goodness! Von Stollengewürz hatte ich bisher nie gehört. Thanks for the links.

    acajou

    2 January 2009 at 15:58

  2. Hi Nils and Duncan

    It may be true that eggs and spices are not common in “traditional” stolle today, but in some earlier recipes both are present. It may be that post-wartime shortages in Europe meant that some ingredients were added or left out and stayed that way, or simply reflect today’s more economical bakery production.

    Though the inclusion of the rye flour batter is mine, I tried to keep the other ingredients close to the older recipes I have. My reference was J. M. Weber’s “250 Konditorei-Spezialitäten, und wie sie entstehen” (1934) an encyclopaedic volume that focus primarily on German baking. Weber was based in Dresden (but appears to have been world-renowned as his books appeared in English, Spanish and French). The other reference was Adolf Heckmann’s “Neus Grosses Konditoreibuch” (1951)

    Weber’s recipes for the Christstollen and Rosinenstollen both contain “30g Stollengewürz”, which he makes from 30g muskatblüte (mace), 15g Kardamom, 15g geriebene Tonkabohnen (grated tonka bean), and 100g Vanillazuker, but no eggs. In Heckmann’s two recipes for Rosinenstollen one contains eggs but no spices, the other spice (mace) and eggs, and the last, Stollen auf Lebziger Art, doesn’t contain eggs or spices. My guess is that Weber was inferring, by the use of the term “Stollengewürz” that there was some general understanding amongst German bakers as to what that meant and that by giving his recipe he was suggesting that there were other opinions as to what constituted “Stollengewürz”.

    Dan

    Dan Lepard

    3 January 2009 at 16:01

  3. Tonka beans, wow. Thanks a lot for this, Dan! This blog is feeling quite lucky now. Great to have the in-depth view on this with sources of higher quality than my Wikipedia copy-and-paste.

    theinversecook

    3 January 2009 at 21:03

  4. Wow, that’s great info Dan. Nice to have breadth of information:) I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a Stollen with spices or eggs, so I guess I’ll be baking some more (when Melbourne heat permits).

    Duncan | Syrup&Tang

    4 January 2009 at 15:57


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